Sruli Recht showed his fifth complete menswear line, AW2013 Concentrated in Paris a couple of weeks ago.
Not surprisingly, it is full of beautifully designed, bespoke items of highest quality materials, consisting of fantastic cuts and first class crafting. The collection also features a shocker, Forget Me Knot, which deserves its own post – stay tuned.
The collection in three words – facetted, charred, smoking.
The Sruli Recht studio is a cross-discipline practice caught somewhere between product design, tailoring and shoe making. Based in Reykjavík, the studio rose to notoriety as it began in 2008 to produce one “non-product” every month
From umbrellas to bulletproof scarves, tables, to belts and boots, and incorporating such materials as concrete, diamonds, skin and wool. The studio produces two seasonal menswear lines per year.
The majority of the items in Concentrated are constructed from a single pattern piece and one piece of material, utilising an origami hybrid of tailoring, draping and digital modification.
The materials feature a selection of waxed cottons, leathers, wool and felts, silks, and timber, complimented by Icelandic reindeer and horse skin. Recht’s team has also developed a permanent creasing system for the mechanised pleat structures of the garments.
Buttons are in the form of a facetted shield, made from oxidised metal alloy rods, designed, moulded and drop-cast in the studio.
Below, sweater from unwound skeins, hand attached with crocheted tape, draped on the stand.Complete and unwound skeins made of 30% Silk and 70% wool, made in Switzerland, hand applied in an incredibly slow process on the stand.
Ruins Jewellery Series includes faceted single and two-finger rings, and earplugs made from Fossilized Resin. Emulating nature’s processes of fossilisation and weathering, they are made combing black acrylic resin with pyrite specimens, and white resin with bornite specimens (peacock ore), each piece is individually hand sculpted by Jade Mellor.
The cropped militia jacket is made from walnut wood material on a wool base. As Recht puts it, “the simplified disastery of polygonal geometry – breaking the body down into a pixelated memory.”
To transform wood into a flexible wooden surface, by dark digital art, a cell-phone whispered soft binary code to a walnut tree seed for a year, then planted it in the ashes of a glacier. Once grown, the wood is deconstructed into pieces, and then attached to a textile base, creating a material that is half wood, half textile, and completely fragmentary. The “Wooden Textiles” in this collection are made with Elisa Strozyk, uniquely for our garments.
Pik is an anti-bacterial personal silver toothpick.
Layered veneer wood boots, laser cut and compressed, with hinged opening.
The third Paris runway presentation and performance took place in cavernous hall of Carousel Du Louvre, Paris. The Show was produced with interactive artists Nils Wiberg, Anders Mellbratt, DZL and Vanessa Carpenter [illutron], with original score performed live by acclaimed producer and composer Valgeir Sigurðsson. Here is a video from the show, enjoy!
Images Courtesy of Sruli Recht
Photographer Marinó Thorlacius
Model Emil Þór Guðmundsson